Reproduction of pelargonium: how is it carried out at home, and also what subsequent care is needed for a room flower?

Pelargonium adorns window sills in many homes and apartments. Ampel varieties look great on terraces and balconies. Florists love this plant for its bright beauty and unpretentiousness.

It multiplies easily, has a peculiar aroma, blooms almost year-round.

In the article, we will consider in detail the methods of breeding this flower. And also about possible diseases and pests. We dwell on the care of a young sprout.

What is this indoor flower?

Pelargonium is a herbaceous plant in which the stems are straight, creeping, branched, and the leaves are simple, palmate or palmately dissected. The flowers have a diverse color in the form of umbrella-shaped inflorescences.

On a note. The plant is photophilous and thermophilic, so pelargonium is grown at home, and in the summer, if desired, it is taken out to the garden.

How to propagate - detailed instructions

There are several ways to reproduce pelargonium at home:

rhizome division (the easiest way);
cuttings (vegetatively);
seeds.

Rhizome division

Dig up an adult bush.
Carefully divide the root into several parts.
Use purchased soil or make a soil mixture (from earth, compost, peat and perlite). Perlite can be replaced with sand, polystyrene crumbs or brick crumb.
Within two to three minutes, calcine the soil in the oven at 200 degrees (and purchased soil, too).
Choosing the right pots for seedlings - in large ones there is a chance of acidification of the soil, and in close ones - poorly developed roots will negatively affect flowering, the optimal size of the pot is 10 cm in diameter.
At the bottom of the pots, drain, for example, from gravel so that the water does not stagnate.
Pour prepared soil over it.
The soil around the seedlings is slightly compacted.
The next day, pour a little water into the pan so as not to waterlog the land with watering.

Reference. The main reason for the death of seedlings during rooting is the appearance of a “black leg”, in which the stem rot, and then the roots rot. It arises from waterlogging and excessive heat.

After three to four weeks, roots will appear and the root system will begin to develop. During the rooting period, top dressing is not necessary, and after - care for overgrown seedlings, as for adult plants.

Cuttings

Often used cuttings, because with the obligatory pruning of plants, their own quality planting material is formed. In addition, propagation by cuttings allows you to save all the decorative characteristics of the plant.

Instructions for propagating pelargonium by cuttings:

The choice of breeding time.
Vegetatively, pelargonium can be propagated at any time except winter, when it is at rest.
The best period for propagation by cuttings is from the end of February to May, with increasing daylight hours and in spring, pelargonium takes root faster.
In the summer, heat can adversely affect, and if there is also increased humidity, there is a danger of developing a “black leg”, which is often fatal to a plant.
Autumn breeding will require the creation of greenhouse conditions in the form of additional lighting (up to 15-17 hours a day) and air temperature up to 22-23 degrees Celsius.
Preparation of cuttings.
For reproduction it is necessary:
- chop the cuttings;
- root them.
The process of preparing cuttings:
- use young and strong shoots;
- remove leaves, leaving a couple at the top;
- flower stalk (if any) must be cut;
- the length of the cuttings is usually 5 cm, and for mini-rosebuds 2.5 cm;
- cuts into two or three leaf nodes;
- with a sharp knife and the cutting angle should be sharp;
- treat with root or charcoal (activated or wood);
- then the slices must be dried for two to three hours.
Cutting time:
- from young shoots - from March to September (rooting period 1-2 weeks);
- from semi-lignified - from August to October (rooting in 2-3 weeks).
Rooting cuttings.
There are two ways to root: in water and in soil.
How to root in water:
- place the cuttings in a container with plain water;
- add activated powdered coal;
- water should be changed after two to three days;
- keep in a bright warm room;
- roots will appear in two to three weeks;
- the processes must be planted in pots with soil.
Planting cuttings in the soil. In pots with soil planted:
- processes after rooting in water;
- cuttings after drying the slices.
What you need to do: soil preparation, the selection of pots and the planting process takes place in the same way as described above on the propagation of pelargonium by division of the rhizome.

Attention! If the uterine bush was grown vegetatively (by cuttings), the survival will occur quickly, if from the seeds - then for a longer time or not at all.

Pelargonium. Propagation by cuttings:

Seeds

Pelargonium is propagated not only vegetatively, it can also be grown from seeds. When propagated by seeds, the loss of varietal differences of the plant is possiblefor example, coloring flowers or leaf shapes.

Instructions for propagating pelargonium seeds:

Determination of sowing time.
You can sow seeds all year round, but the best time is the end of January-February, when you can already do without additional lighting.
Selection of quality seeds.
Seeds should be dense, large and oblong with brown color and a matte shade.
Soil preparation.
You can use purchased soil or make a mixture of:
- one part of peat;
- one part of river sand;
- two parts of turf land;
- the mixture must be calcined for two to three minutes.
Compliance with the temperature regime.
The optimum temperature is considered to be no higher than 22 degrees. If the ambient temperature is not higher than 18 degrees, the seedlings do not stretch.
Landing process:
- distribute seeds at a distance of 5 cm;
- sprinkle them with a layer of earth about 2 millimeters;
- when watering use a spray gun;
- cover the box with seeds with a film;
- once a day they need to be aired;
- when shoots appear (after 2 weeks), the film is removed;
- after the formation of two or four leaves, seedlings can be dived.

On a note. A pick is a transplant into a larger container.

When propagated by seeds, pelargonium begins to bloom after about six months (about why pelargonium may not bloom at home, read here).

Possible problems and solutions

Problems may be:

if rooting occurs in the ground - a fungal disease is possible;
if in water - roots may not appear for a long time.

Fungal infection can be triggered by overmoistening of the soil in combination with high ambient temperature.

What to do in the first case? To eliminate the problem, it is necessary to exclude disturbances in the care of the plant. The root development during rooting in water is adversely affected by ambient temperature above 25 degrees Celsius.

What to do in the second case? To stimulate the formation of roots in a handle taken out of the water, the slice should be renewed, dried overnight, and planted in the morning.

Follow-up care

Pelargonium is an unpretentious plant and requires minimal care.
Care instructions are as follows:

Watering.
Irrigation requires moderate watering for the health of the root system, but the general rule is that it’s better not to water it at all than to pour pelargonium. You need to navigate by the state of the soil, it must be dried out.
Top dressing.
When feeding is needed:
- phosphorus fertilizers - during active growth;
- containing potassium - for plentiful and long flowering.
Pruning.
Trimming contributes to:
- the formation of a compact crown;
- the emergence of primordia of inflorescences;
- the formation of their own planting material.
How to trim pelargonium:
- a slice is made at an acute angle above the outward facing leaf assembly;
- You can use a sharp clerical knife or blade;
- the cut should be decontaminated by sprinkling with crushed charcoal.

Pelargonium cultivation, being an event that is not particularly costly in terms of resources and time, gives a colorful result in the form of bright abundant flowering. Under favorable conditions, one plant per season can form about 20 inflorescences.